Showing posts with label Dervla Murphy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dervla Murphy. Show all posts

Monday, June 11, 2012

Yarnbombing - for Immrama and Lismore's Travel Writing Cyclist

A colourful attraction!
I just had to share this with you all in the blogosphere and knitting and crocheting community - a craftosphere perhaps - as it is the coolest thing to hit Lismore since the Barber of Seville Yarnbombing of the previous weekend, which you can see here.

An unlikely Urban Guerilla.
In the Tuesday Knitters at Angela's Design Workshop we had a plan afoot for the Immrama Travel Writing Festival, especially as this is the 10th Festival and has just concluded last night after a very successful weekend. I will blog about the festival anon. Meanwhile, a bicycle yarnbombing seemed most appropriate given that it's the preferred mode of transport of our own renowned traveller Dervla Murphy. Dervla is world-famous is travel writing circles as an octogenarian who has written of her journeys through life from her first book, Full Tilt: Ireland to India with a Bicycle, through her autobiography Wheels within Wheels to her latest work The Island that Dared - Journeys in Cuba and she is soon bringing out her book on Palestine. She has a wonderful body of work, Lismore is very proud of her, and we are delighted to have her as a friend. She visited Laos after we told her what a wonderfully unspoilt place it was back in the 90s, and she is a real inspiration to all generations.

My crocheted contributions
Street art!
So this is the outcome of our endeavours! Angela kindly supplied the bike, which was somewhat past roadworthy and its prime, and we embellished it with love and lots of crochet and knitting and weaving to make this fabulous work of art. Many Tuesday Knitters made various parts - mine was the half-moon rear-wheel "skirt-guard" which is a peculiarly Dutch innovation - "Jasbeschermers" or coat protectors. I found these wonderfully colourful embellishments online and on Ravelry and adapted one to my end procuct, which I love. Then Dairiona made the beautiful front-wheel covers in crochet shades of blue, while sisters Annie and Agnes made the basket - in basketweave stitch with a pre-patterned yarn. I can't name each and everyone as I'd be sure to omit many but suffice to say there were myriad contributors!

The ornate basket - bees making honey!
Last Friday, coinciding with the Immrama Festival, the bike was placed on the steps of the Heritage Centre, a nerve centre for tourism in Lismore, and the visitor numbers were certainly up this weekend, due to the festival but of course we take some credit with our own visitor-magnet! I saw lots of people photographing it, being photographed beside it, and in one case, in it! A little  baby was placed in the basket for the sweetest photograph, which I saw on Facebook! Some people thought it was Dervla's iconic bike, Roz (Rozinante, the Quixotically named bike that took her to India and beyond in 1963 and which found a home in the Lismore Library, where her father was once County Librarian).

So what do you think? We are totally biased and love it and hope it finds a long-term home in Lismore, as a tourist attraction in its own right. Who knows, it might even go down in history.

Monday, April 2, 2012

On My Bike in the Spring Sunshine - Out and About Around Lovely Lismore

At Ballyduff Bridge in Hi-Viz!
The past week we have had fabulous summer weather in late March and this unseasonal weather was such a treat that everyone tried to make the best of it.

We did some gardening and planted some new shrubs in a bed near the patio and I finally got out on my bike for some longish cycles around the beautiful countryside. I've been very bad with getting going on the bike and hubby Jan's put me to shame by keeping up his cycling during the winter, but this is my first week of proper cycling, apart from trips to the shops for the messages (a Hiberno-English expression for grocery shopping).

Like everything I tend to defer the moment but once I get started I'll  be on track for a few times a week and aim at the Sean Kelly Challenge 50km charity cycle in late August. This will be the third year I'll  be doing this event and I've enjoyed it immensely for the past two years. You can read about 2010 and 2011, and watch this space for 2012.


I came home from work two consecutive evenings and went out on the bike for about an hour,  doing the same circuit of 15.2km both evenings and glad to see I'd knocked a  minute and a half off my time the second day. Yesterday I went for a longer cycle of 22.5km and didn't expect to do too well time-wise as there was a strong headwind on the home stretch, so I was pleased with the end result.
The River Blackwater at Ballyduff - towards Fermoy
River Blackwater at Ballyduff - towards Lismore









Cappoquin - R. Blackwater and the old Railway Bridge

New Cordylines and old banana trees
The Knockmealdown Mountains from Glencairn
There are some wonderfully picturesque cycling routes around Lismore, with the river valley providing circuits out one road and home another, with no major hills to wear down the weary start-up cyclist.

I only wish I had the stamina of our world-renowned cycling author and travel writer extraordinaire Lismore resident, Dervla Murphy, whose exploits on her various bikes and other modes of more exotic transport have been documented in her numerous books for the past almost-fifty years, since Full Tilt - from Ireland to India on a bicycle was published in 1965. 

Rozinante was the name of that bike and she surely was an Irish Don Quixote tilting at more than windmills, certainly she threw the book at the stereotype of Irish womanhood in those pre-feminist wave days. We are very pleased and proud to call her a friend and have spent many a pleasant evening in her company.

Here are some of the lovely scenes around Lismore and Cappoquin and Ballyduff, and our newly planted shrubbery out in the back garden. Hopefully the banana trees will flourish again this year with a nearly-frostfree winter, and the cordylines will thrive and grow.

My trusty steed - nameless
Ben and our newly planted garden
Dromana House at Villierstown
Horses on R.  Blackwater Inches


Enjoy the beauty of our Blackwater River Valley - and if we only had this kind of good weather here we'd be living in the best place on earth - in fact it's pretty good as it is despite the weather, as it's the rain that help the Emerald Isle live up to its name!
River Blackwater from Cappoquin
Reflections from the Kitchen Hole, near Cappoquin

Monday, March 14, 2011

Devonshire Day 2011 - A Special Spring Preview of Lismore Castle Gardens

Enjoying cream tea in the Pugin Room Lismore Castle
Today was a beautiful crisp sunny Spring day - the birds were singing, there was a coating of hoar frost on the grass and cars and rooftops this morning before the early sun slanted across the shadows to thaw everything and burn a few shrubs with leaf-burn - but as it was Devonshire Day 2011 all we were interested in was the actual weather, as Ross O'Carroll-Kelly might say.

When I went to bed last  night - quite late as is my wont in the weekends - the cars were white with frost, as forecasted. This morning dawned bright crisp and sunny. Perfect for the event that's become enshrined in Lismore fundraising folklore as a day to be enjoyed by visitors from far and near.

Farmers' Market Lismore Castle Avenue
It's the second event after the Table Quiz in January that's become a fixture as a fundraiser for Immrama Festival of Travel Writing, and we have been involved since the outset 8 years ago. The event receives widespread publicity in the local and national press, and people from all over come to it, many who return year after year.

This year we were delighted to welcome our most recent distinguished guest - Ciara Conway TD - our newly elected Labour Party member for Waterford about whom I've blogged extensively in the run-up to and beyond the election.

Bernard gives his talk on Lismore history
Chris talking about the Castle and gardens
The day consists of a cream tea in the Pugin Room of Lismore Castle, which is a privilege in itself as the Pugin Room is never open to the public during the rest of the  year. It is only on Devonshire Day when people get to see and hear the history of the castle which is in private ownership of the Duke of Devonshire, who's had it on and off for centuries. A last bastion of colonialism, it has shrunk in size considerably since the days of Sir Walter Raleigh when it was a huge estate. The Land Acts returned a lot of the arable land to the people and the Castle retains about 10,000 acres of which 8,000 is forested woodland. The rest is a working farm with managers and staff. The castle runs itself by being an upmarket B&B with rates of (those of you who've read previous posts on Devonshire Day will be familiar with this) about €35,000 per week for a party of 12! So it's obviously only for the well-heeled.

The gardens looked lovely despite the harsh cold winter - compared to last year's Devonshire Day, which followed a really hard late winter, this year's winter was earlier and by January and February the weather was warmer and spring had sprung a few weeks ago. The daffodils were starting to flower and the magnolias were in bloom, although one pink magnolia had its blossoms burnt by the recent night frosts. There was evidence of a lot of plant damage from frost and frost burn.
Castle from Courtyar

 The yucca-like palms didn't survive the -15C temps of the past winter and a number had to be cut down, and a lovely Mimosa and Chilean Myrtle have also been damaged beyond resurrection. The Mimosa is normally ablaze with yellow blossom at this time, in-keeping with its International Women's Day symbolism - and this year the entire tree is deadwood. The Myrtle might survive but it seems unlikely, as only a few branches are in leaf.

The Castle from the Courtyard
It was lovely to walk around the garden with the groups of visitors and Chris Tull the extremely knowledgeable Head Gardener kept everyone entertained and informed in each of the five tours he conducted. People really enjoy having the guided tour as it's the only time it happens. The gardens are open from March - October but not with guided tours. The Lismore Castle Arts gallery is also open during the summer and this year these artists will be exhibiting.

Part of the draw of Devonshire Day is the Cream Tea served in the famed Pugin Room or Ballroom (the former Chapel) while Immrama Chairman Bernard Leddy and Immrama President Peter Dowd give very informative talks on the Castle's history in the context of the history of Lismore, which is pretty amazing as it encompasses the Book of Lismore, an illuminated manuscript from the 15th Century in Irish which documents the travels of Marco Polo. Another famed travel link to Lismore, along with the more contemporary Dervla Murphy link!


First group enjoying the noon sun
Carlisle Tower Lismore Castle
View from Courtyard
Chris standing on the Ice House grid. Gallery in Tower
Chris Tull, the aforementioned Head Gardener, gives a talk on the Castle and the Gardens, with their links to Joseph Paxton (the Greenhouse) and the Devonshire's links to the Kennedy clan and Fred Astaire. (A sister of President Kennedy's should have been the Duchess of Devonshire but she and her husband - the Duke-in-waiting - were killed in separate aviation accidents during and after WW11). The incumbent Duke's mother was one of the famous Mitford sisters - Deborah, the Dowager Duchess, who was the least controversial of the Mitfords - and recent visitors to the Castle included Prince Charles and his now-wife Camilla Parker-Bowles, who came here in 2004. Our sons were then working as butlers in the castle for summer jobs and were serving them their dinner - surely something for them to dine out on but they're not fazed by fame at all - they leave those bragging rights to their mother!

I'm on duty as the health and safety first aider but thankfully I have never had any problems, other than the odd fall during bad weather when the ground becomes slippy underfoot. Today was uneventful but I still have to be there to accompany the groups on their walkabout, just in case. The Farmers' Market reopened for the season today and we can enjoy this every Sunday until October.

Camellia
All in all it was a great day; I am at home now with aching legs from all the walking around the uneven terrain and garden steps, writing this up and sharing some of the photos with you. I hope you enjoy them and that they give an idea of the lovely day we had. Compared to last year the garden was further on but compared to the previous year it was still very late.
Carlisle Tower from Lower Gardens


As we have seen in the tragedy of the Japanese earthquake and tsunami, we mess with nature at our peril and we have to bow to the strength of the forces of nature. When they are unleashed we are pretty powerless to do anything, and it was heartening to hear Chris in his role as head gardener of the castle extol the virtues of symbiosis with nature, working with rather than against it in being as organic as possible, crop diversity and selection of indigenous and not exotic plants, and not using chemicals at all as there are none without consequences. The results are seen in the wonderful working kitchen gardens that are ready for planting now, to provide the house and guests with fresh produce throughout the season.

Arbutus tree planted by Pres. Mary Robinson 1991
Chris and Antony Gormley sculpture
Crest over entrance "God's Providence Our Inheritance 1615 "
An Irish Man (1907) Unknown Artist
"Up and Over" Irish Artist
Me with Mary Roche and family
The Yellow Jackets - me with Jan and the boys!
Pugin Chandelier in Dining Room - Note D for Devonshire
Joseph Paxton greenhouse
Accurate Sundial

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Spring has sprung - Road Art Spotted around Co. Waterford

Golden Harvest by Colm Brennan - Kilmac bypass, N25
Today was one of those glorious spring days that started off with a sharp hoar frost whitening everything and a dense fog that  took a few hours to clear and led to a few pile-ups on the motorways up the country. No-one hurt but lots of inconvenienced motorists and closed lanes. The sun shone through around mid-morning and some things just begged to be photographed - like this shot of the sun glistening on the sea off Helvick Head in Ring, and the view from Helvick across to Mine Head.


Golden Harvest, N25 on Kilmacthomas Bypass

Falla na Sioga by Alan Counihan, Windgap,Dungarvan-N25
 I feel really lucky to work in a job that involves driving around the beautiful scenic south coast of Co. Waterford, and quickly forget the days of winter ice and snow and dark dense fog that never clears and totally disorientates even the most seasoned drivers, particularly around Old Parish, which is an upland area near the coast that often seems to be the only foggy part of the county!
Falla na Sioga detail-Alan Counihan,Windgap,Dungarvan-N25

Falla na Sioga (Fairy's Wall) Alan Counihan,N25 Windgap
 The election posters are nearly all gone- tomorrow's the deadline after which there'll be hell (and fines) to pay, so every candidate's making trojan efforts to get rid of them. I took this last billboard standing of Ciara and Eamon Gilmore today near Ring Cross on the N25, with nicely bilingual Thank You stickers attached.
Falla na Sioga by Alan Counihan, Windgap,Dungarvan-N25
Falla na Sioga -detail of inscription-Windgap,Dungarvan-N25

Last Billboard Standing in West Waterford! N25 Ring Cross
Sun over Atlantic Ocean from Helvick Head today
Then this evening I was checking my phone in a lay-by near The Sweep on the same N25 up near Windgap, when I thought to photograph this piece of road art in the lay-by. The funny thing is that the gap in the wall is art which I erroneously attributed to a botched County Council repair job, until I realised it had a name - Falla na Síoga (Wall of the Fairies) and an inscription - and what's even more bizarre, I'd met the sculptor (Alan Counihan) and his partner Gypsy Ray (to whom it's dedicated) a number of years ago in Lismore at travel writer Dervla Murphy's house. He is also an actor who played in a stage production of Yasmina Reza's The Unexpected Man in Lismore some years ago, which I really enjoyed. On the Co.Council's website photo they only show the doughnut and not the inscribed wall.

There's a fascinating piece of well-known road art on the N25 at the Kilmacthomas Bypass - Golden Harvest by Colm Brennan - which represents sheaves of waving corn. It's a lovely prominent piece of sculpture which always gladdens my heart on the road to Waterford - especially if it's for some interminable meeting.
Panoramic vista from Helvick Head to Mine Head today
So I hope you like the first days of spring which seems to have sprung in West Waterford- we can live with the cold frosty nights as long as the days are warm and sunny - and nothing like the stretch in the evenings with the setting sun blinding me on the drive home every evening. Another three weeks or so and the clocks go forward. "Spring Forward, Fall Back" is my mnemonic for Daylight Saving - I hate it when the clocks go back in October and love it when they go forward in March - even if I lose an hour's sleep!

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Bloggers' Book Club - The Poisonwood Bible by Barbara Kingsolver

Phew! I just put down this amazing book after re-reading it with pleasure for the Bloggers' Book Club's July choice. I first read it for our own book club about 10 years ago and the decade did nothing to dampen my enthusiasm for what must rate as my best book ever! It left a lasting impression on me and it drew so many images and brought back so many African memories that I thought it was just me who was so taken with it, so it surprised me that so many of my fellow-book club friends felt the same. It wasn't just that a number of us had lived in Africa for prolonged periods of our lives, it seemed to resonate equally with those who had never set foot on the continent.

It spoke to me particularly because I could identify with the characters she described; I had met many Baptist missionaries in Tanzania and had flown on a number of occasions with Baptist pilots who didn't quite inspire confidence by praying before take-off. This was before I knew them and their ways well enough to know this was the norm - and indeed I had a few issues with their evangelising and their lifestyle which seemed to be at complete loggerheads with the Africa I knew. At the risk of offending any Baptist readers, I couldn't reconcile the loving God I was familiar with and the intolerant wealth-loving God they promulgated. Nor could I accept the luxury in which most of them lived, with aircon homes straight out of their home states in America, even carpeted and replete with Lazy-Boy recliners in the heart of the bush. They relaxed by hunting down and killing anything on four legs that didn't have CITES status, and kept their NRA membership as active on the African savannah as in the deer-hunting woods back home. There was such a dichotomy in the presumed humility of those out to spread the word of God and the arrogant smugness at the righteousness of their mission - when asked how long they planned to stay in Africa the stock answer was "As long as the Lord wishes" - which led to my approaching the book with all my prejudices and preconceptions alive and well.

It didn't disappoint. I just give this background to place the book in context - I re-read with the anticipation of visiting a well-known familiar place - and it brought the smells and sounds of Africa alive for me. Many an evening in Kigoma we sat on the veranda of the then Railway Hotel and looked across the second-deepest lake in the world, Lake Tanganyika, and admired the sunset behind the hills of then-Zaire, about 70km away, where the lake shared a border and where the port town of Kalemie could tell as many tales of derring-do and boys' own adventures as could Kigoma. After all, Kigoma is only a few miles up the lake from Ujiji, one of colonialism's most iconic encounters - where David Livingstone was found by Henry Morton Stanley and was greeted with "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?" It is marked by a papier-maché sculpture of both men, and is a must-see for every backpacker and expat on the trail of the "real Africa".

The book tells the tale of the Price family's decline into disaster and tragedy over the course of a year or so, after the bullying insecure patriarch Nathan takes them under extreme duress to the "Heart of Darkness"; the Congo in 1959 - 60, just before independence and the subsequent conflict when Katanga Province attempted to secede to protect its mineral wealth and stay under rule of the former colonial power, Belgium, while the US and Western powers installed Mobutu as their puppet after the democratically elected Patrice Lumumba was tortured and killed, having been reviled as a Communist Marxist - part of the Red Terror of the Cold War era.

You know you're in for a treat when you read of the Betty Crocker cake mix taken by the family, and of the layers of clothing and household implements they wore to compensate for the weight restrictions on the airlines. The diversity of the four girls is remarkable for its reality - in any family there are bound to be such extreme personalities. The oldest, Rachel, is a stereotypical airhead blonde. Adah never speaks and has a physical disability, but she and her twin Leah are geniuses intellectually, and her palindromic brain keeps the reader challenged to track her mirror phrases. Ruth-May is the baby at five, and her innocent voice is one of the joys of the story as she reflects the racial prejudice of the segregationist Deep South. The story is told by the girls and their mother, Orleanna, who is downtrodden as her hopes for a happy life with her dour preacher husband fade before her eyes, and we never hear Nathan's voice telling his story. He is a deeply damaged personality, probably suffering from what would now be PTSD, as he had survived the March on Bataan in the Philippines in WWII - one of the few, and is wracked with survivor's guilt, which he channels through God and his unfortunate family by imposing his iron will and the Bible on them. The downward spiral is predictable and inevitable and it is both thrilling and chilling to see how the whole family disintegrates in the face of Nathan's stubbornness - so much so that they are even abandoned by the parent mission back home.

Kingsolver has a great facility for getting inside the broad sweep of this book's characters - the empathy for the Congolese villagers and their culture is outstanding and not patronising or condescending in a post-colonial-guilt fashion. The character of Anatole as a passionate advocate of human rights in an inherently corrupt society, is credible in the context of similar African activists like Nyerere in neighbouring Tanzania - a poor country but not one that succumbed to the corruption of the Congo under Mobutu. Kingsolver doesn't shy from criticising her country's involvement in the whole debacle of the Congo, nor does Belgium escape, as it was their decision not to educate the Congolese leaders of the future that left the vacuum filled by Mobutu and his henchmen.

It's impossible to summarise a work of such breadth and depth in a simple online review - suffice to say it encompasses four decades, with most of the action in the first year or two, until inevitable tragedy befalls the family leading to them going their separate ways. The description of their lives in the rainforest is vivid, and the hilarity of their naiveté is reflected in the narrators' different perspectives on their lot. Rachel struggles to maintain normality and have her hair and clothing pristine, an impossible task in such a hostile environment. The twins adapt remarkably and befriend the local kids, as does Ruth-May who plays group games with the kids and has a pied-piper ability to be a leader, despite her youth.

I loved this book on first reading and it was great to revisit it as I took away a lot more of the history of the Congo as it became Zaire and returned to its Congo name in later years. I read a lot of books on the area in the intervening decade, one of the best being Tim Butcher's Blood River which juxtaposes brilliantly with Kingsolver's book and I would highly recommend to anyone with more than a passing interest in Africa. Both books highlight the beauty and resilience of the people, and the post-colonial legacy is worth remembering as Ireland has just commemorated the Niemba Massacre, when nine Irish UN peacekeepers were killed, an event that struck a deep chord in the Irish psyche as it was controversial for decades; the dead were seen as heroes and those who survived were treated as pariahs who have only recently been vindicated.

There's everything here - the cultural clashes between the missionary and the village witch doctor and tribal chiefs, the strong women who faced adversity and death on an almost daily basis and with stoicism bordering on fatalism. The grinding poverty and lack of materialism is in stark contrast to the material wealth of the West. There's no doubting the writer's sympathies with socialism and democracy in the African context; she cites Angola as another of the West's failures with their overthrow of democratically elected Neto and dos Santos - all part of the Cold War - if Cuba was sending in medics and teachers to prop up the Angolan regime it had to be opposed and suppressed by whatever means possible - and that Leah and her family ended up in Angola is reflective of their values. The family are followed to the present and their voices lose none of their power and personality as they grow up to adulthood. I don't want to spoil the story by disclosing denouements - particularly the main tragedy - but I do hope that you read it as something that may stay with you long after you close the final page.

It will change the perception of Africa as a downtrodden entity and even though there have been and are despotic regimes throughout they can often be traced back to the colonial experience of divide and conquer (where one tribe was favoured over another by the ruling power - as in Belgian-run Rwanda and Burundi with genocidal consequences - a story best told by the many authors who wrote extensively and authoritatively after the 1994 genocide -These are among the best and I can vouch for them having read them all. If you're interested in Africa - contemporary and colonial - then get an excellent foundation African book is The Scramble for Africa by Thomas Pakenham. It gives the colonial background for all the woes that have beset Africa in the 20th Century and beyond. A large part of my heart is in Africa, the birthplace of two of our four children, so I refuse to lose heart over the bad news - after all, Ireland or Europe criticising Africa for its problems would be a bit ironic, given our recent history.

So it's back to finishing off The Lacuna - her new book, which I set aside for the book club. It's another great read - about Mexico in the revolutionary years with Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera as the focus around which the story revolves, somewhat akin to setting the Poisonwood Bible in the midst of the Congo conflict.

MEMBERS LIST

Currently, the other Bloggers' Book Club Members are:

  1. Susan @ Joyous Flowers
  2. Cathy @ Rumble Strips
  3. Marie @ Diary of a Country Wife
  4. Lorna @Garrendenny Lane Interiors
  5. Val @ Magnum Lady
  6. Jen @ Smurfette Jen
  7. Jenny @ Stitchcraft Jen
  8. Kirsty @ The Road Less Travelled
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  10. Susan @ Queen of Pots
  11. Winifred @ I'm Trying, Honestly
  12. Ann @ Inkpots n'Quills
  13. Una @ Just Una's Blog
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